Curly haircut: how to cut curly hair so the shape holds

The short answer: a curly haircut is shaped by looking at how the curls fall when dry, because curls spring up as they dry and look much shorter than when wet. So length comes off carefully, and layers are placed to spread the volume evenly. At B&B Elegance a haircut costs 15 €, curly hair included.

Why curly hair is cut differently

With straight hair, what you see wet is roughly what you get dry. With curls it is not. Every strand coils and pulls up, and each section does it to a slightly different degree. One section may spring up two fingers, the one next to it four. Cut them all to the same line while wet and the shape comes out uneven once dry.

That loss of length is called shrinkage. The tighter the curl, the bigger it is. Stylists who specialise in curls, writing in English and in German, describe tight curls losing up to 80 percent of their stretched length as they dry, while loose waves lose far less. The practical rule is the same everywhere: take off less than you think, since more can always come off later and length does not come back.

Dry or wet: which cut is better for curls

This is the question we hear most about cutting curly hair, and the honest answer is that it depends on the hair. A dry cut shows straight away how each curl falls and gives a more natural shape, which is why many stylists prefer it for clients who always wear their hair curly. A wet cut gives a more precise line and suits someone who wears curls some days and blow-dries straight on others. Often the two are combined: the base shape wet, the final detailing dry.

We do not follow one branded method for everyone. Besire, who has cut hair for more than 20 years, chooses the approach after seeing your hair, how the curl behaves and how you wear it day to day.

Layers and shape: the haircut for curly hair that works

The most common problem with curls cut to one length is the triangle. The top lies flat under the weight, the bottom puffs out at the sides. Layers fix this. When the top layer is cut a little shorter, the curls at the crown are freed and lift, and the weight at the bottom drops.

• Long curly hair: long layers that keep the length and take out the weight.
• Medium curly hair: more visible layers around the face and on top, for volume at the crown.
• Short curly hair to the chin: a rounded shape that gives the curls room to open.

How many layers you need depends on density. Fine curls lose volume with too many layers, and the advice changes, as we explain in fine hair and volume. Face shape decides where the fullest part should sit, covered in our guide to hairstyles for your face shape.

Some tools do not suit curls. Razors and thinning shears can open the ends of the strand and cause frizz. That is general advice shared by most stylists who work with curly hair.

How to arrive for a curly haircut

Come with your hair in its natural curl, the way you usually wear it. Do not blow-dry it straight that day and do not tie it in a tight ponytail, because the band leaves a kink that changes the shape. If you use a curl cream or gel, put it in as usual so the real result shows. That way the cut is made for the hair you live with every day.

What to tell your stylist

A few clear sentences help the cut more than any single photo:

• How you wear your hair most of the time: curly, straight or both.
• Where you want it to fall when dry, for example at the shoulders or below.
• What you dislike now: flat top, puffy sides, dry ends.
• How much time you have in the morning for styling.

A photo of a cut you like helps, but pick someone whose curl looks like yours. A style on loose waves will not come out the same on tight curls.

How often to trim curly hair

Most stylists suggest a cut every 6 to 8 weeks if you want to keep the shape. If you are growing your hair, you can wait longer and remove only the dry ends. The curls tell you when it is time: the ends tangle sooner and the curls at the bottom lose their spring.

The cut is only half the work. How to wash, hydrate and dry curls is covered step by step in caring for curly hair.

Book your curly haircut

Message us on WhatsApp or Viber with a photo of your hair in daylight, no filter, with the curls dry and in their natural shape, from the front and the back. Add a photo of the cut you like and tell us if your hair is coloured or bleached. We reply with the first free appointment, Monday to Saturday, 9:00 to 18:00, on Rr. Jakov Xoxa in Pristina. If you are visiting from abroad, send it a week or two before you land.